The History of Chinos: From Military Roots to Modern Style

In the stifling heat of colonial India in 1845, British soldiers faced a serious problem: their heavy wool uniforms and bright red coats were ill-suited for the climate and made them conspicuous targets. In an early attempt at camouflage, some soldiers stained their white uniforms with mud, dust, coffee, and even curry. However, Sir Harry Lumsden, in 1848, took a more strategic approach—adopting lighter, looser cotton trousers, dyed with tea leaves to better blend into the landscape. The result was khaki, a name derived from the Urdu word for “coloured”, marking the birth of what would later evolve into chinos.

Recognising the military advantages of khaki, the British Army officially adopted khaki uniforms in 1848 for its forces in India and later in campaigns across South Africa, Sudan, and Afghanistan. Initially made in China to reduce transport costs, by the 1850s, demand led to local production in India, thanks to John Haller, a European weaver who introduced hand looms to the region. Haller is also credited with inventing the khaki dye, which soon became the standard colour for military uniforms globally.

During the Spanish-American War of 1898, U.S. Army soldiers stationed in the Philippines wore similar lightweight cotton trousers, crafted in China. The Spanish-speaking locals referred to them as “pantalones chinos”—or simply, “chinos”—a name that stuck. Within a few years, these trousers became standard issue for the U.S. Army, reinforcing their role as a global military staple before transitioning into civilian life.

From the battlefields of empire to the wardrobes of students, rebels, and style icons, chinos have lived many lives. Shaped by necessity, style, and subversion, they evolved into a versatile essential, balancing function and form. But how did this military invention become a cornerstone of Ivy League style, British subcultures, and even our workshop in East London? Let’s trace the journey of chinos back to their roots.

From Battlefields to Civilian Life

The first chinos, known as khakis (from the Hindi word for “dust”), were designed for military camouflage—providing relief from heat and helping soldiers blend into arid landscapes. By the time American soldiers encountered them during the Spanish-American War in 1898, the trousers had been refined for durability, breathability, and simplicity.

The transition from battlefield to civilian life was swift. Early adopters included adventurers and aviators like Charles Lindbergh, who made his historic transatlantic flight in khakis, and British explorers seeking rugged yet comfortable attire. In the UK, chinos became a symbol of understated elegance, worn by working professionals and weekend ramblers alike.

Ivy League Swagger and the Birth of Preppy Style

By the mid-20th century, chinos had evolved from military essentials to a defining piece of Ivy League cool. In the 1950s and ’60s, students at elite American universities adopted them as part of a uniform that balanced tradition with a touch of nonchalance—worn with oxford shirts, loafers, and unstructured blazers. Over time, this look became more expressive, with bold colours like reds, yellows, and madras plaids injecting personality into the once-muted staple. It was a rejection of rigid formality rather than the establishment itself, a shift epitomised by John F. Kennedy, whose effortless yachting attire cemented chinos as a symbol of understated American elegance.

At the same time, Afro-American musicians, artists, and intellectuals were redefining Ivy League style on their own terms. The Black Ivy movement saw figures like Miles Davis, John Coltrane, Thelonious Monk, and James Baldwin take the same preppy aesthetic and infuse it with rebellion. Their chinos weren’t just a nod to tradition—they were worn with roll necks, knitwear, and soft-shouldered sport coats, turning a once-exclusive look into a statement of self-assured, intellectual cool. Miles Davis, ever the style icon, perfected this mix, pairing slim-cut chinos with loafers and jazz-club-ready tailoring. What emerged was a fusion of refinement and defiance, a style that continues to shape modern menswear.

British Elegance and Cultural Adaptations

Across the Atlantic, chinos found a foothold in British culture, where their clean lines and versatile appeal suited both countryside pursuits and city living. By the 1960s, British Mods embraced tailored chinos as part of their sharp aesthetic, pairing them with slim-cut blazers and polished footwear. This fusion of practicality and sophistication remains a hallmark of British menswear, where chinos and polo and button down shirts continue to play a significant role.

From Workwear to Subculture

Chinos also found a place far beyond the preppy elite, becoming a staple in various subcultures that redefined their meaning. In California, Latino youth movements like the pachucos of the 1940s and later the cholos of the 1970s and ’80s embraced oversized chinos, pressing razor-sharp creases into them as a nod to zoot suit tradition. This crisp, deliberate styling turned chinos into a symbol of pride, defiance, and cultural identity.

By the early 1990s, chinos—often referred to simply as “khakis”—were also embraced by hip-hop artists, particularly on the West Coast. Groups like N.W.A. and Snoop Dogg wore wide-leg khakis with oversized shirts and denim chore jackets, blending streetwear with a military and workwear aesthetic. The loose, effortless styling reflected a shift toward baggy silhouettes, influencing an entire generation of hip-hop fashion.

This ability to bridge formal and casual, rebellion and refinement has made chinos a blank canvas for self-expression—a trait that continues to shape how they’re worn today.

The All-Purpose Trouser for Today

Looking at present style, and chinos are a wardrobe cornerstone for good reason. They’re endlessly versatile, straddling the line between casual and formal. Unlike denim, chinos can adapt to a wider range of occasions, making them indispensable for modern life. Whether paired with a chunky knit on a brisk day or a linen shirt in summer, they’re a reliable companion in any season.

The Blackhorse Lane Atelier Chino’s

At Blackhorse Lane Ateliers, we honour the long and storied tradition of chinos while adding our own distinctive touch. Our W12 chino is a straight-cut design crafted with precision and care in our London workshop. Made from exceptional Japanese cloth and now offered in the finest Brisbane Moss cotton twill, these trousers marry heritage craftsmanship with a contemporary silhouette.

A true wardrobe essential, the W12 chino moves effortlessly between worlds—smart enough for the city, relaxed enough for the weekend. Whether paired with tailoring or a worn-in tee, they reflect a way of dressing that values both refinement and ease, a balance of tradition and modernity that defines our approach to menswear.

Discover our chinos in-store and online. For a more personal touch, explore our MTO and MTM services, where you can choose from a range of fabrics—including linen and corduroy—to create a pair tailored to your style.